I'm POed

[phlash]

So sorry to hear that Dennis! I know all too well about that kind of problem!

I know I tried to give you the run-down on the proper paint and decal preparation at Colpar the last time we were all there. Not sure if you remembered it all but I'll put it out here for future reference.

Whatever your choice of paint ALWAYS use the same type of clearcoat when finishing the job. IE: If you're using acrylic/enamels use the same for clear coating. Laquer based paint - lacquer clearcoat.

ALWAYS, ALWAYS TEST YOUR PAINT AND DECALS ON A TEST PIECE OR SCRAP PLASTIC THAT YOU DON'T WANT FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE TEST TO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO UNDESIRABLE FINISHES.

You can probably remove that horrible finish from your car, however it will take a good deal of patience when applying the solvent to remove the clear topcoat/decals/paintjob. I don't know what kind of paint you used, but make sure to use a compatible solvent for it. I've used the acrylic/enamels on the cars I've painted and can use Isopropyl alcohol to remove it. Lacquers would require lacquer thinner. Mineral spirits and the like will not effectively remove it without a great deal of solvent and effort. 

Either way, prepare yourself for a bit of work to remove the 'blemished results'. If you're not sure about certain aspects of the process, PM me and I'll try to help you. 

Again, so sorry to hear this, was just talking last night at Jims to a few guys about anxiously awaiting the results of your 'Z Z Top Eliminator'!

Good luck!

[DennLeo]

Thank you for the advise. The ZZ top Eliminator is not going to happen. After trying to properly cut the pin striping with the angles and the background behind the Zs I gave up. It is a bit more difficult than I thought it would be and beyond my skill level.
I did a test on a plastic food cover with the water slide decals but did not paint the cover. The water slide decals were fine. I didn't test the paint because I used the same make clear as the paint foolishly thinking that Rust-Oleum enamel would not have a problem with Rust-Oleum clear enamel. The body is sitting in an alcohol bath. The paint and clear is coming off little by little with the help of a small brush. I'll keep working on it.

[amiatanut/marc.gosselin]

Dennis, that happened to me as well and I now ONLY use future floor wax (available at Walmarts( for my finish coat. I brush it on, sometimes 2 coats. The finish is great!

Good luck.
Marc

[phlash]

Just as a followup to the last post, I wanted to let you know that it is a good idea to 'seal' your paint and decals with a sealer, be it a topcoat of clear, semi-matte (satin), or matte. Some people use 'Future' acrylic floor finish to seal their paintjobs.

The primary reason I use a sealer is that the sticky colored 'dots' we use for lane recognition can actually pull off decals and in some cases the paint itself (not the manufacturers applied paint or tamco markings). Sometimes solvents like tire cleaners can affect the car's finish as well. My Revo Slot Supra suffered from the effects of that, and I wondered why Revo Slot did not apply a sealer for their markings.

A sealer will prevent that from happening, so I always clearcoat my paint and decal work.

[DennLeo]

Ok thankyou both. I will use Future floor finish on my next go around.

[DennLeo]

Is Future floor polish a wax or a liquid?

[Tom Dolan]

Feb 3, 2023 10:19:36 GMT -7 DennLeo said:

Is Future floor polish a wax or a liquid?

Liquid.

Tom

[DennLeo]

Thanks